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This summer's drought conditions reached far and wide across Pennsylvania.
Earlier this month the U.S. Department of Agriculture named 58 Pennsylvania
counties where farms were eligible for emergency farm loans to cover
losses due to low precipitation. And while recent rainfall has begun
to replenish groundwater reserves, this year's rainfall is still well
below average.
Grape growers in the state, however, are not too likely to be applying
for farm loans this year. In fact, some have said that 2001 could
be one of the best vintages for Pennsylvania wines in recent memory.
Deborah Deis is director of the Pennsylvania Wine Association,
an industry trade group. She says the excitement over this year's
crop is because of the way grapes grow. "Grapes have unusually deep
roots, and are very light feeders when it comes to water and fertilizer,"
she says. "In addition to that," she adds, "the quality of the wine
is much much better when they're not over-watered."
Deis says it's usually less likely for east coast grapes to grow
up in dry conditions than to be over-watered, but this year's drought
means the vines had just the right amount of water, and they put
all their effort into growing grapes. On top of that, the grapes
are a little smaller than usual, and that means a higher portion
of the fruit is skin, where the flavor is most concentrated.
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| Chadds Ford winemaker Eric Miller stands next to a barrel
of 2001 Chardonnay which will be ready to drink next Spring. |
Eric Miller is a winemaker at Chadds Ford Winery in Chester County.
He's been growing wines in southeastern Pennsylvania for twenty
years, and says he's still discovering nuances in the growing conditions
and the resulting grapes. But he expects this year's conditions
are going to intensify the local flavor of the fruits.
"I think it [the dry summer] has been a concentration and amplification
of our regional features," Miller says. "Acidity was lower than
usual, but not too low. The mineral quality in the Chardonnay showed
through, and we got big fruit."
Miller says he picked some of his grapes later than usual this
summer, reacting to weather conditions, which let some grapes ripen
more than in previous years. He won't know how the experiment ends
until the Spring when the Chardonnay is ready to drink, but he's
excited to find out.
Overall, this summer's growing conditions were similar to traditional
wine country, like California. But unlike California, this past
Spring had plenty of rainfall, giving new vines a chance to establish
themselves. Miller says one of the main differences between growing
wine grapes in a state like Pennsylvania and a place like California
is the variability of growing conditions.
"What's significant about the east coast is we're reactive," he
says. "The climate happens and we react to it, whereas in California
they plan their season in the spring, and go on with their plan
as if nothing changed. Here things can change from week to week,
from month to month."
And things can change from year to year. Pennsylvania Wine Assocation's
Deis says most wine growers are sensitive to the needs of farmers
who grow other crops, and wouldn't hope for a drought every summer.
But this summer's dry conditions did come as a pleasant surprise
for winemakers.
Some Pennsylvania wineries produce Nouveau wines which are already
available, but most of the 2001 vintage wines won't be available
until next Spring at the earliest, and some of the red wines won't
be on the shelves for another few years.
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